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Obedience Training
There are a couple of routes to take here. You can send them for training, or train them yourselves.
You can train them as a gun dog for serious hunting, or as a family pet with a few simple commands. You can customize your own program. Lab Pups recommends a great book called WATER DOG by Richard A. Wolters.
Lab Puppy Training Tips
Walking your puppy or adult dog should be an enjoyable experience. When you walk, the dog should be right by your side making sure you are not over extended. If you dog or puppy constantly pulls ahead, here are 3 tips you can use to cure 'constant pullers'.
Tip 1:
Using a training collar can dramatically curb constant pullers. The use of the collar is very important. After adjusting the collar and making sure it is securely fastened, try walking the dog in a strait line. You can pull up slightly to test it out. When first using a training collar on your dog, he/she may have an adjustment period. I like to walk at a normal pace in a strait line, the dog should be by your side, with his/her eye horizontal with your knee. Remember, be gentle but firm. When you feel you have the hang of it, try some circles and turns. Walking should be a whole lot easier from now on. Make sure to practice using the normal collar as well, you don't want your dog thinking he/she can get away with not being behaved. Also practice walking both sides, I find a dog that has been trained to walk solely on the right will have a harder time on the left.
Tip 2:
In this tip I would like to illustrate one of my most helpful training aids. The 'visual line training'. Normally when you are teaching a dog/puppy to heal, they have to establish thier own DNE (Do not exceed) line, formed by your actions. When you have working with the training collar, and the dog still pulls ahead, this method you are about to learn will stop walk-a-heads all together. You can start by using the training collar (preferred) or the normal leather or nylon collar. You need a longer (about 6 foot) leash. As you walk (start out on the side you are most comfortable with) what you want to do is figure out the DNE Line and make your dog adhere to it by swinging the leash in front of his/her nose. I usually like to swing it in a circle right in front of this imaginary line I established. If your dog pulls ahead, the leash will bop him/her in the nose, causing an instant slow down. Keep this in mind, some dogs are more tolerant and may take a little bit of a faster swing to deter them. After you swing the leash a few revolutions, slow it down and gentle swing the leash in front of their nose. If you dog gets the idea, you can just be ready to correct if need be. A good substitute for the leash is a small twig or stick that you can wave in front of them, and be they cross the line, and gentle tap on the nose should remind them or cause them to pull back.
Tip 3:
Once you have worked with your dog on the training collar, and/or the visual line training , and your dog is pretty proficient at healing. The next step is to try them off-leash. This will be by 'voice command'. Starting right with a dog/puppy from scratch, you may never have to worry about them being a "flight problem". Running off or staying just out of arms length is a signal of improper training. A dog that is truly obedient, will be responsive to your voice. He/she will come when called, sit on command, and stay until told otherwise. (Note: this may take patients and time to achieve).
First you want to start off leash training in a controlled environment. A fenced yard works the best. Here is a list of some items you will need.
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30 foot lead
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training collar
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6 foot leash
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3 foot stick
The first training I like to do with the dog are the basics while on the leash. Get them warmed up with healing, sitting, staying and coming, all while still on the leash. When you are ready, get the pup to sit and stay, while you attach the 30 foot lead on him/her. I will take the lead and the dog, get him/her to heal till I get to a post or tree, I will take the loose end of the lead and go around the back of the tree (Note: Make sure you can pull the rope back and forth easily). Once I have everything setup, I will get the dog to sit and stay. As I back up, I will give them a visual 'stop sign' hand (usually my right) while keeping tension on the lead in my left hand. The idea is to teach a dog to stay and enforce it when you are not right there beside him/her. The dog may get up when I reach that magic line, I will try out the voice command first by telling him/her to sit. If the dog does not sit, I will see if I can just close some distance and still get them to sit with my voice, until I am right up on them, I will push their backside down and repeat the command. You want to achieve 5-10 stays with a noticeable increase in sit time. When you are ready to call them, you can just let the other end of the lead go. In some case the dog my not want to come, or may want to veer off to one side or the other. Once you have the dog staying on their own, you can practice coming straight to you by not looping the lead on the tree and pulling the dog to you when you give the come command. After you achieve this bit of training, you are ready to move on to off leash walking. This is pretty simple, you will start by walking your dog with the leash on, and somewhere in walking you can remove the leash, I wouldn't stop, I would try to un latch the leash while walking. Try to make it un-noticeable. In my right hand I would be carrying a little stick or something I can wave in front of thier face if they try to advance. The dog should also have the training collar on, as you would be able to reach down and pull up on the collar if the dog lagged behind or wondered too far in front. Practicing these tips will allow you to have a much more enjoyable relationship with your dog.
Zone Training was developed to create a healthy, happy, and intelligent Labrador. A well trained Labrador will truly be your best friend. This is where "Zone Training Your Labrador Retriever" "For Obedience And Companionship" comes in to play.